The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. Research & Development team presented research focused on new findings in skin defense and anti-aging research at the 2019 Society for Investigative Dermatology Meeting (SID) in Chicago, May 8-11. The company noted that skin is the first barrier of protection against potential environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV. Studies have shown how cutting-edge key ingredients can aid skin defense and response using its natural capabilities.

 
Estée Lauder researchers discovered how each sirtuin isotype is essential to skin cell activity, and the activation of sirtuins with key ingredients can impact and increase the activity of skin fibroblasts to help combat aging. The sirtuins poster was presented by Dr. Nadine Pernodet, VP-global R&D, skin biology and bioactives, and team members Kelly Dong, MS and Earl Goyarts, PhD.  According to Estée Lauder, there is increasing evidence demonstrating the importance of sirtuins in longevity, metabolism and control of stress. Sirtuins are evolutionarily well-conserved proteins found in mammalian cells and include seven isotypes. Sirtuins function primarily as NAD-dependent deacetylases, although two of the seven have ribosyl transferase activity. The collapse of local chromatin results in the modulation of transcriptional programs involved in metabolism and inflammation. The Estée Lauder research shows that by combining a flower extract which activates Sirt-1, an algae extract which activates Sirt-3, and a ferment which activates Sirt-6, there is an impact and increase in the activity of 62-year-old skin fibroblasts.

 
“Over the years, we have made a lot of progress on understanding why sirtuins, also called longevity proteins, are so important to maintain ‘well-functioning’ skin. They are present in different locations in cells helping to maintain their energy level, controlling inflammation and supporting repair, all functions necessary to bolster over time,” explained Pernodet. “By combining sirt 1, 3 and 6 activators and treating mature skin cells, we are able to reverse their aging profile and restart their protein machinery such as collagen production. This helps us to fight aging.”
 
 
Eucalyptus Extract
 
Additionally, the R&D team’s research has shown that another key ingredient, Eucalyptus globulus extract, has significant antioxidant activity that can help skin defend against oxidative stress from pollution, UV or blue light to reduce associated oxidative damage. The eucalyptus poster was presented by Pernodet and team members Klodjan Stafa, PhD and Goyarts.

 
The researchers noted growing scientific evidence has demonstrated that exposure to ozone, pollution, UV radiation and blue light can have detrimental effects on human skin, including increased oxidative stress and inflammation, and decreased barrier function. Eucalyptus globulus, also known as Tasmanian bluegum or Southern bluegum, is a widely cultivated evergreen tree native to Australia. Numerous studies have characterized the pharmacological benefits provided by E. globulus, including antibacterial and antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antitumor and antihistaminic activities among many others. This research shows that eucalyptus extract has significant antioxidant activity that can help skin to defend against oxidative stress from pollution, UV or blue light and reduce associated oxidative damage.
 

“Our experience in natural molecules enables us to find very potent extracts to support skin defense against the environment,” observed Pernodet. “This is the case with the eucalyptus extract we are using to help counteract damage due to UV exposure such as oxidative damage, irritation and protein degradation, thus helping to maintain healthy looking skin.”  

 
The Estée Lauder Companies’ R&D team is at the forefront of understanding the impact that environmental stressors have on the barrier of skin and the impact it has on skin aging, according to Kurt Schilling, PhD, SVP-basic science research and advanced technology, R&D, The Estée Lauder Companies.

 
 “As our scientific research continues to uncover key anti-aging ingredients and better understand the biological mechanisms behind aging, we will continue to apply this knowledge to help define and advance the future of beauty for our global consumers,” he concluded.